Visas & entry
Most US, Canadian, UK, EU, Australian and many other passport holders can obtain a tourist visa on arrival at Kathmandu and designated land borders, subject to current eligibility and passport/photo/payment requirements; check Nepal Immigration before travel. Indian citizens do not need a visa. Some nationalities must arrange a visa in advance, and rules can change.
Getting in
- Kathmandu — Tribhuvan International Airport: The only reliably useful international gateway and Nepal’s domestic-flight hub. Use it for almost every first trip, trek connection and onward flight; keep a buffer night here before an international departure.
- Bhairahawa — Gautam Buddha International Airport: Nearest airport to Lumbini. International schedules have been inconsistent, so treat Kathmandu as the dependable entry point; BWA is useful for domestic access when flights operate.
- Sunauli–Bhairahawa border crossing, India: The practical overland crossing from Uttar Pradesh for Lumbini, Chitwan and Pokhara. It is useful if you are already in north India, not a quick shortcut to Kathmandu.
- Birgunj–Raxaul border crossing, India: The main overland route toward Kathmandu from Bihar/Kolkata-side India. Expect border formalities and a long, variable road journey after crossing.
- Kakarbhitta–Panitanki border crossing, India: The eastern entry for travelers coming from Darjeeling, Sikkim or northeast India, and the logical gateway for Ilam and eastern Nepal—not for a quick Kathmandu–Pokhara circuit.
Getting around
Nepal has no useful countrywide rail network: use road transport or domestic flights. Tourist buses are cheap but Kathmandu–Pokhara, Kathmandu–Chitwan and similar transfers routinely consume most of a day; private cars are more comfortable, not necessarily much faster. Fly when time matters—especially to Pokhara, Bharatpur, Nepalgunj and mountain airstrips—but weather cancellations are normal enough that mountain flights should never connect directly to an international departure.
Money
The currency is the Nepalese rupee (NPR). Cards work at better Kathmandu and Pokhara hotels, restaurants and shops, but cash is essential for local meals, small towns, trekking routes, taxis and many entry fees; carry enough before heading into the mountains. Tipping is not a blanket obligation, but guides, porters, drivers and lodge staff on organized treks generally expect it.
Daily budget · NPR (Nepalese rupee)
- Value
- NPR 5,000–9,000/day
- Mid-range
- NPR 12,000–25,000/day
- High-end
- NPR 35,000–80,000+/day
- Bands exclude international flights and assume two people sharing a room; solo travelers pay more for rooms and private vehicles.
- Value covers hostels or basic guesthouses, local meals, shared transport or tourist buses, and ordinary entry fees.
- Mid-range means reliable hotels, restaurant meals, city taxis/ride-hailing, and possibly the cost of an occasional domestic flight spread across the trip.
- High-end means upscale Kathmandu or Pokhara hotels, private drivers, quality lodges, guided experiences, alcohol, and domestic flights.
- The classic Kathmandu–Pokhara circuit is the easiest place to control spending. Chitwan adds costly transfers and lodge packages; Bardiya usually needs a Kathmandu–Nepalgunj flight plus a long road transfer.
- Trekking changes the math fast: permits, guides or agency requirements where applicable, porter wages, high-altitude food, charging, Wi‑Fi, hot showers, and peak-season lodge scarcity all add up. A guided tea-house trek commonly runs about US$60–120 per day once food, rooms, guide and permits are included, often above these general bands in Everest or remote regions.<br>Domestic flights—especially Lukla and remote-airstrip sectors—are the largest single transport splurge. Private road transport is often worth paying for, but Nepal’s slow roads make it expensive in driver time and fuel.<br>Spend intelligently: use local dal bhat and shared transport on the city circuit; reserve extra budget for reliable mountain logistics, weather buffers and a good wildlife lodge rather than trying to make every transfer private. Alcohol is notably expensive relative to food.
Eating well
- Eat dal bhat where it is being cooked for regular local diners, not only for tourists; it is practical, fresh and often at its best as everyday food.
- For Newar food, leave generic Thamel restaurants behind and seek older neighbourhoods, Patan, Kirtipur or Bhaktapur.
- On treks, expect menus to narrow and prices to rise with altitude; dal bhat is usually the most dependable fuel.
- Alcohol is disproportionately expensive compared with a full dal bhat meal.
Book before you land
Kathmandu–Lukla flights for Everest/Khumbu treks, especially October–November and March–May.
- Build buffer nights in Kathmandu after treks or domestic flights. Lukla and other mountain sectors can be delayed for weather, and monsoon landslides can disrupt roads.
- Do not plan around Nepal’s tiny rail network; it does not connect the Kathmandu–Pokhara–Chitwan circuit.
- During Dashain and Tihar, transport can be crowded and services reduced. Avoid tight road-transfer days around the main public holidays.
- For treks, confirm the exact route’s current permit, guide and agency requirements before paying: rules and enforcement differ by protected or restricted area. Upper Mustang is a restricted-area trip, not an independent budget hike.
- Skip elephant-back rides in Chitwan; choose lodges offering naturalist-led jeep, boat and walking activities instead.
- At altitude, take symptoms seriously: acclimatization days are not optional, and evacuation insurance should explicitly cover trekking altitude and helicopter rescue.
Entry rules change — verify visa requirements for your passport before booking this country.
Season by season
October–November
Post-monsoon weather brings Nepal's clearest skies, dry trekking conditions and comfortable temperatures in Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Chitwan and Lumbini.
Everest and Annapurna trekkingKathmandu Valley heritagePokhara mountain viewsfirst-time Nepal trips
This is peak season: reserve Lukla flights, guides, better trail lodges and good hotels early; Dashain and Tihar can also crowd transport or reduce services.
December–February
Days are generally dry and crisp, with clear Pokhara mornings and pleasant wildlife conditions, but cold dawns, short daylight and snowbound high passes.
Kathmandu Valley culturePokhara at a slower paceChitwan and Bardiya wildlifelower-elevation walks
High-altitude treks are colder and less forgiving, tea houses can be basic in winter, and Christmas/New Year raises demand in popular stops.
March–May
Spring brings longer days, rhododendron bloom and another strong Everest/Annapurna trekking window, though mountain haze often builds later in the day and the Terai gets hot.
Annapurna and Everest trekkingrhododendron trailsactive trips in the middle hillsfestival-focused city visits
Trails are busy again, while Chitwan, Lumbini and especially Bardiya can be fiercely hot; Bardiya may approach 42°C in April–June.
June–September
Monsoon makes the valleys and lowlands warm, lush and wet, while clouds, leeches, landslides and weather disruptions affect roads and domestic flights.
Kathmandu Valley cultureslow staysUpper Mustang and other rain-shadow traveltravelers comfortable with flexible plans
It is a poor season for a first classic Everest or Annapurna trip; build substantial buffers because mountain views, roads and flights are unreliable.
Events worth planning around
Dashain and Tihar · Usually September–November; dates vary with the lunar calendar. · Nationwide, especially Kathmandu Valley and transport corridors.
Major family and religious holidays bring exceptional atmosphere, but buses and flights can be crowded and some domestic services operate on reduced schedules; avoid tight road-transfer plans.
Maha Shivaratri · Usually February or March; date varies with the lunar calendar. · Pashupatinath, Kathmandu.
Pashupatinath becomes intensely crowded and ceremonial. Go for the atmosphere, not a quiet temple visit; allow extra time around the area.
Holi · Usually March; date varies with the lunar calendar. · Nationwide, especially Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Expect color powder, water throwing, lively streets and less predictable local transport. It is worth joining only if you actively want the festival rather than a calm sightseeing day.
What to eat
Nepal is several food cultures, not one generic “Himalayan” menu. Use dal bhat as the reliable everyday meal—especially on trekking routes—but make a point of eating Newar food in the Kathmandu Valley, where the country’s most distinctive urban cooking is concentrated.
Dal bhat: rice, lentil soup, seasonal vegetables, achar and often meat or curryBaji/chiura: beaten rice with spiced meat, beans and picklesChoila: grilled, heavily spiced buffalo or chickenBara/wo: savoury lentil pattiesChatamari: rice-flour flatbread with toppingsYomari: steamed rice-flour dumpling, usually sweet-filledJuju dhau: Bhaktapur’s rich ‘king curd’
Kathmandu Valley — especially Patan, Kirtipur, Bhaktapur and old Kathmandu neighbourhoods: Newar/Newa cooking · Baji/chiura sets · Choila · Bara/wo · Chatamari
Bhaktapur: Juju dhau · Yomari